You won't be the only one heading to Samarkand's Shah-I-Zinda at dusk as the guidebooks recommend. At Shah-I-Zinda you find tombs of the harem and some similar monuments to military chiefs. An imam sings prayers in an inner chamber. It is one of few places in an autumn Uzbekistan tour where you feel crowded. You'll need to find ways to avoid the selfie-clamoring masses vying for best photo opp positions. Those who bring more religious sentiments to this site may especially feel that the human activity of today is borderline desecration.
Surrounding Shah-I-Zinda, and on the long walkway approaching it, you can meander in a peaceful cemetery rich with photo-engraved tombstones that collectively create an impression of Samarkand's more recent history.
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